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Training Tools

1. Leashes – Leashes come in various materials and lengths. In an effort to allow dogs to investigate the terrain on outings, I prefer a long leash so as not to have the dog at the end of the leash struggling to get to that special scent. One common rule is a small dog and a tall handler need a longer line to accomplish laxity in the line. A short handler and a large dog may need a shorter line to accomplish the same degree of leash laxity. I personally find that leashes made of cotton or leather more comfortable than those made of chain or nylon. As a house lead, one that drags from a collar when puppies are free of the crate and being supervised in the home, I generally use cotton rope with a spring snap clip attached. Puppies always chew the dragline so it’s best if it didn’t cost a small fortune.
   
   
2. Collars – Collars come in several types and since this is what the leash is attached to, it is important to find the correct one for you and your dog. Puppies tend to only need something comfortable therefore soft cotton; nylon or leather collars would be suitable. I prefer the buckle type rather than a plastic clip style collar as it is less likely to break open if force is inadvertently applied. Strong adult dogs need an appropriate collar which can still be made of cotton, nylon or leather as long as it is not likely to break while out on the road during a walk. The wider the collar, the more comfortable it is to the dog unless it is so wide that it resembles a hooded sweatshirt, take the dog shopping for the best fit. Collars also come in metal such as the slip or choke collars and pinch or prong collars. Chain type collars were manufactured for training purposes and should be used only when being instructed on how to use them effectively and humanely. A sensitive trainer knows how to properly fit a chain collar as well as use it appropriately with no ill effect on the dog. When recommending such a collar, I use those made by Herm Sprenger. a company that is careful to machine round all edges so there are no sharp spurs. Chain collars should only be used with the help of a qualified instructor and never left on an unattended dog.
   
   
3. Harnesses – Harnesses were designed to allow a dog to pull out ahead with no discomfort. In Toy breed or brachial cephalic (short nosed) breeds a body harness is an excellent way to prevent tracheal irritation or collapse. In large breed dogs, a harness is an invitation to pull so unless you want to be yanked across the Tundra perhaps it is not a harness that you need. Harnesses are terrific for sled dogs; search dogs, guide dogs and police service dogs but the average pet dog of any substance might need a more controlling device. Recently, harnesses have been developed as anti-pull type. I am of the opinion that since a body harness attached to a leash causes an opposition reflex to pull against; I generally stay away from them as anti-pull tools. Note that a flat buckle collar may also produce the reflex to forge against but may cause less opposition as it covers less surface area.
   
   
4. Head Halters – Head halters look a bit like horse bridles. They may appear to some to look like muzzles, but be assured they are not. These head halters may be of the best devices to manage and control leash pulling. I may not put them into the category of training type collars but they are humane and effective. As the leash is clipped to a small ring that is attached to the bottom of the nose loop, one must be careful not to pull the dog sharply as that might cause trauma to the dogs neck as its head is turned back in the handlers direction. Head halters work terrific on very large dogs or those dogs that may be mouthy as the head of such dogs need containment for control of pulling or inappropriate mouth behaviors.
   
   
5. Clickers – Training clickers are commonly plastic devices with a small metal piece that makes an audible click sound. This sound is associated to a food treat, which motivates a dog to figure out, what makes you click and treat them. The click sound once paired with the treat then becomes an audible marker for any appropriate behavior. Once the dog figures out how to behave to get you to click, that behavior tends to repeat itself over and over again. Once a dog is regularly repeating a behavior, a verbal and or physical cue is paired with the behavior as the dog is doing it until such time as the dog has learned the cues and performs the behavior on cue. The clicker is a device used to shape behaviors and when effectively used, an incredible training tool. There is a huge amount of information on clicker use and I urge all to seek it out.
   
   
6. Citronella Spray Collars – These spray collars were designed to either automatically spray an unpleasant scent from a small box that is attached to a collar when the dog barks or when a remote button is pushed on a transmitter. While these collars do not produce physical discomfort, they may just really frighten a sensitive dog half to death. When it is the right tool, they startle the dog for a moment and interrupt the undesired behavior, which gives an owner opportunity to reinforce a correct behavior in its place.
   
   
7. Remote Electronic Collars – Remote electronic collars have been around for many years and used primarily by hunters that needed an effective way to control their dogs at great distances. These collars can be very helpful to those who need off leash control and have become more popular in police service dog training as well as companion dog training. I feel that it is important to state that electric collar training was not designed as a short cut to appropriate training but as an adjunct towards reliable off leash control. Unqualified pet owners without the guidance of a thoughtful and sensitive professional should not use electric collars. Proper use of this device employs negative reinforcement, not positive punishment. Today’s remote collars are equipped with minimal stimulation levels, which are designed to minimize the discomfort to the dog. Dogs are typically taught in how the stimulation shuts off commonly by coming to the owner where it is rewarding and safe.

Tools are just that, tools and when the right tool is applied to the right job and used by a skilled craftsman, the job will be done well. Unfortunately, the flaws are in the wrong tools in the wrong place and used by the inexperienced, which can only lead to disaster. One has to realize that it is not the tools at fault; it is the poorly trained craftsman who has not mastered his craft. When it comes to dogs, one must be thoughtful and before using any training tool must know the character of the dog being trained, and the odds of the dogs family being able to effectively and humanely use the recommended tool. It is the job of the qualified instructor to assess these qualities, of both owner and dog to define which tools might be most appropriate for best training the family dog. Finally, I personally do not believe in using any electronic tools on puppies. I am staunchly against underground containment use in puppies and of the mind set that puppies need only socialization and guidance until they have reached an age where they can benefit from any corrections at all.